I remember when Neighborhood Molino would be making posts maiz along with some fun facts/information behind their process along with the maiz. Eventually selling tortillas to foods. I recall having their grass fed beef empanadas. Man those were so good! Now you catch them at cssweets,@ccssweets on Sundays from 10am-3pm selling brunch! I'd totally recommend the masa pancakes, the "Q" Tlaco along with the Horchata de palomitas! This week's feature is Neighborhood Molino, @neighborhood.molino
We begin with Andre's likes to mention "I'm the main person behind Neighborhood Molino but I receive so much help from my partner, my family, my friends, and others." he continues but sharing what's been enjoying as of recently "recent interest is reality TV, to wind down, but my main interests that take up most of my day are cooking, researching, and eating. " Is this how the new menu items get added? The tasting and the research? Makes sense. He ends it by sharing his favorite local businesses "I have so many favorite local artists + businesses + farmers, there's so many people doing incredible things: CC's, Hi Vida, Terras, Tropicasa, Procured, Juicy Fresh, Terra Preta, Bonhomia, Nanci Guevara, Xandra, ForkIt, & the list goes on." I'll have to check out the ones I don't know for sure!
For starters what's a "Molino" asking for a friend as Andres says " 'Molino' is the Spanish word for 'stone mill'. It's the tool/machine we use to grind the maíz into masa. In essence, it's the heart of the project. Without it, we couldn't do what we do." Man I can imagine the process behind this along with the time it must take to grind the maiz, but in the end you have a very nice product and they enjoy so do others.
How did all start before becoming Neighborhood Molino "I learned to work with a molino at my last job in Austin where I lived for 5 years, we came back to the Valley when the pandemic started so we could be with family. I learned about the importance of food sovereignty & thought by way of grinding heirloom maize the traditional way we could get a bit closer to that here. I looked all over FB marketplace for one and found one in Brownsville. I drove over with my small van and loaded it up back to McAllen." I like that Andres mentions "importance of food sovereignty...grinding heirloom maiz the traditional way could get a bit closer to that." Getting a bit closer to our root? Closer to our traditional foods? I will say from buy store bought tortillas and making tortillas from hand is just so different. My mom will sometimes make them by hand and I don't usually eat tortillas anymore, but man there's just something about handmade. I have no tried Andres tortillas, but if its as good as the food then there's no surprise they'll be just as good! He also mentions he drove to Brownsville to pick up the molino now thats dedication.
Is there any difficulties with owning a molino? I can't imagine there being any, but Andres shares with us "Yeah, I had started only offering to friends and family through Facebook and my personal Instagram & operated out of my friend's town house. I encountered electrical problems since it required so much electricity that I couldn't use it there anymore. I don't know anything about electricity. Also had to learn how to sharpen the molino's volcanic stones which scared me at first." Molinos use a lot of electricity? That's crazy! I would have never known along with sharpening it. It sounds like it can be troublesome, but lets look where Andres is now. He pushed through and he's making some good stuff out of it.
From the numerous foods and tortillas what's something Andres enjoys making as he mentions "The Zacahuil (giant tamal) maybe. I'm very attached to it since it's a dish native to my great grandfather's home. It's a dish that I had never tried but had heard about so many times. My mom only remembers having it as a little girl. It's a very old dish and I pay homage in grinding a very specific coarness of masa. So, for me it's almost like traveling back in time and connecting with this place I never been. It's like bridging this separation that I feel being on the border, not being able to cross easily into Mexico. " Man being able to feel that and then eating it must be a feeling unexplainable from knowing the history especially to his own personal feelings behind it. Even knowing about it and ordering it I'm sure just tasting it helps "bridging this separation" that even a couple of us are missing. The biggest tamal I've had era un tamal veracruzano. My aunt in Mexico would make these and I haven't had them in a long time. I feel like if I have it one more time it would hit me with memories of my childhood or something. I'm glad Andres was able to share this with us and could "pay homage" along with being able to "connect with this place I never been" as he earlier mentions "importance of food sovereignty."
How did the idea of creating neighborhood come to be? "The name comes from my grandpa having a tortilleria in Monterrey, but it didn't have a name other than 'TORTILLERIA' and it's how its seen in many places. They call them tortillerias del barrio. There was also el MOLINO, or molino del barrio. It translates to 'neighborhood tortilleria' or 'neighborhood molino'. These establishments work for the community and are generally run by the community." As he mentions "work for the community...generally run by the community." We can see how Andres has a community behind him that helps as he mentioned earlier "I receive so much help from my partner, my family, my friends, and others." He continues by saying how he works/provides for the community "This 'neighborhood molino' is here to be a part of the community, to be there in times of need, to be there in celebration, to provide a service and knowledge to the people. Doing this in an accessible way through online media, through food, through writing, through platicas etc. We also offer 'pay what you can' for our masa + tortilla products to ensure our community has access to nourishing thoughtful food." Being able to provide from it being knowledge of where it all comes from to "pay what you can" is really accessible for the community. Knowing that they really do a "neighborhood molino."
How does he wish to grow with his molino along with the services provided for the community "I think there's a lot we want to do and we're slowly working toward it. One big dream is to open a small brick and mortar operation to provide workshops, supper club, knowledge shares, retail, and food service." Yo a workshop, supper club, and everything else sounds amazing! I can't imagine making something with my hands, but something that has some sort of background from where I come from then eating it. Being able to learn about maiz and trying new things for sure!
Andres shares the process behind creating the main part of everything "The masa is at the center of everything so sure. For that, we process the corn through a technique called 'nixtamalization'. It's a lot less tricky or scary as it sounds. You grab a big pot, sprinkle in a small amount of slaked lime (commonly known as 'cal'), fill with water and bring to a boil. Then rinse your dry maize kernels, add in the pot and cook for 20-30 minutes. This water solution is alkaline because the cal, and breaks down the maize, unlocking all its nutrients that turn it into a superfood. Then it rests for 12 hours. In the morning, it's gently rinsed, then ground wet using the molino. Then it's kneaded into a cohesive mixture to be made into tortillas, tlacoyos, etc. The process takes about 15 hours total." It's all worth in the end. Being able to create these and seeing images of how people use them for their breakfast and other meals must feel nice. All that time and knowing it brings joy and food to the table for the community.
How does Andres choose what's on the menu or on pre-orders? He brings up "I get inspired by what's at the farmers market or what I see is coming into season. I think of fun ways to play with masa, what the weather is like and what people might want to eat during that time of day. It's always very impulsive and depends on the situation." This comes in terms of the "research and eating" as mentioned earlier? Hmm as he mentions "what the weather is like" makes me wonder what would there be to eat during fall and winter.
Since they started to how they are now how does Andres see his progress? " I think it's doing good, I hope. I've met a lot of interesting people along the way with complementary interests and passions and I'm grateful for those connections. I wish at times it would be more financially secure, but it's a labor of love at the end of the day." It really is "a labor of love" we can see it and most importantly taste it. I wish neighborhood molino as a whole the best in their growth!
As we know or well now know you, but Neighborhood Molino started selling brunch on May 30th as CCSsweets from 10am-3pm on Sundays. They have a very nice and tasty menu and here's what he has to say "Sunday brunch was a great turnout! I poured a lot of love and energy into creating a menu that would excite me and I feel it pays respect to Valley history, culture, and nature. The plan is an every Sunday kind of deal, as long as it's physically, emotionally, and financially stable. The plan is to keep the current menu and incorporate weekly specials + rotating drinks/desserts that are in tune with the seasons. I hope we can highlight a lot of indigineous ingredients in creative ways to further provide community knowledge. There is also interest in bringing in collaborations w/ other local food folks that we are excited about." I look forwards to the changes in the season and whats to come. Man I was going weekend after weekend its just too good! I totally recommend especially the recommendations I gave earlier. Take a look at the menu on their Instagram or go to CCSsweets yourself on Sunday and see it for yourself! I totally recommend it.
Andres shares his thoughts on the local scene in The Valley,
"There's such a strong sense of community, and while the valley spans a couple hours of driving, we all just gotta support one another. I think it's really special and I'm grateful to have been welcomed into the scene w/ open arms."
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